Relaxing at Bowling Green

Our next stop was the anchorage at Cape Bowling Green so we headed off in E-NE 10-15kts at 0715 and saw our first whale at 0730. What a great start to the morning.

National Parks state on their website that Cape Bowling Green lighthouse was built in 1874 to assist vessels passing through the Great Barrier Reef inner route. Cape Bowling Green is a low sandy spit 70km south of Townsville where many ships had run aground. The lighthouse has since been dismantled (1987) and has been re-erected at the National Maritime Museum in Sydney.

 

Aerial photo of Cape Bowling Green courtesy of SLSA


One ship that wasn't saved by the lighthouse was SS Yongala. The Queensland Tourism site states that the wreck of the SS Yongala off Cape Bowling green near Townsville is one of the best wreck dive sites on the Great Barrier Reef. The passenger ship sank in 1911 after becoming trapped in a cyclone while on its way from Melbourne to Cairns. The ship lay undiscovered for more than half a century until it was found in 1958 by two skindivers. At 110 metres long she is one of the largest, most intact historic shipwrecks and has become an artificial reef housing a diversity of marine life that includes eagle rays, turtles, giant gropers, schooling barracuda and sea snakes. In the last few years the wreck became infamous for the murder of an American woman by her husband while diving.. 

We set our anchor at 1445 at this beautiful windswept beach that was littered with driftwood. There was only one other boat in the anchorage and a few locals were camping and fishing from the beach. Very relaxing.

Beautiful anchorage at Cape Bowling Green

 

destination Upstart Bay

We were well rested when we headed off (again). The winds were variable, seas 0.7 with a swell less than 1.5. Good stuff, but not enough breeze for Manatee to sail. We were abeam the infamous Abbot Point mid morning.



coal loading jetty at Abbot Point

Despite this massive coal loader (hardly utilised at this stage) we saw abundant marine life - whales, mahi mahi, a turtle and a shark.

Upstart Bay is about 40nm NW of Bowen and is a delta of creeks and rivers with holiday houses lining many shores. We arrived 1540 and tried many spots prior to finding our anchorage for the night. Manatee was clearly eager to continue her journey as she danced over her anchor chain all night.

following Bowen

After Marg had recovered from her bout of pneumonia we left the pond in Bowen to proceed further north. We dropped our mooring at slack tide 1045 on 13th September to head across to the public jetty to fill our water tanks. This meant navigating a very crowded harbour with dozens of boats tied to piles. As we reached the jetty we realised a fishing boat was tied up which didn't allow us enough space to either raft up or attach our lines to the jetty, so we commenced circling. Eventually some fishermen called out "he won't be back for hours, he's gone to Townsville". WTF. A yachty realising our predicament came to the rescue and moved the boat until we could fill out tanks. We didn't leave the harbour until after midday, so plan B was in place - up to Queens Beach to anchor and get an early start in the morning!

Despite the setback it was good to be on the move. We passed close to Stone Island to have a look at the discarded resort which had an "Indian" aura to it.

old resort on Stone Island

The forecast wind was correct - 5-10 kts from the north (of course since that was our destination) so we motored up to Queens Beach in very choppy seas which the forecast said were easing after some recent heavy weather. After anchoring at the beach and admiring the amazing rock formations we agreed that the short, sharp chop wouldn't allow a peaceful night so back we went to Stone Island!

resort at Queens Beach

At least we had a great sleep!

Intermezzo

As I write this TC Hadi is south of us (we're in Townsville) somewhere off Hamilton Island. Manatee was already prepared as TC Dylan was hanging around about a month ago and he turned out to be what the locals termed "a fizzer." We didn't bother to remove extra lines and everything was tied down and packed away, our plan was in place so we have been fairly relaxed. The area really needs the rain a cyclone brings so locals almost seem to welcome them!

So before I recommence our cruising blog a 'where we are at' entry will be a good place to start.

We have been in Townsville since October's end where we felt it was important to get settled before cyclone season was upon us and AK was required to attend placement at Townsville Hospital. We are berthed in Breakwater Marina in Townsville as there is nowhere to anchor and the marina is cyclone rated. The 'pond', outside the marina was too shallow for us and the yacht anchored outside the breakwaters waiting for a weather window to travel to PNG pitched and rolled dramatically..so the marina it is. Our other option which is Ross Creek  has a bridge not far upstream from the yacht club which is very congested. Ross River was anchorage of choice but has a bridge which restricts yacht passage which did cause a bit of controversy at the time of construction.

Our sad news is the loss of our beloved Jacki on November 1st after a briefish illness. Her big heart finally gave out and the remaining three of Manatee's pack still mourn for her. Ruby was hit hard as she always looked to Jacki for protection and play, she was her perfect big sister. Ruby has picked up now and is showered with love and attention from both locals and marina residents. Many cruisers at the marina have chosen to voyage without their dogs so Ruby benefits! She was invited on a yacht the other night to have a Bowen massage treatment - lucky bitch! Us humans are still shocked at how quiet (and clean) the boat is! Jacki was certainly a character.

Jacki at the start of the journey

We are both working hard to fill the kitty to cruise again. At times we are yachts passing in the night and shift work keeps us tired and unable to do much socialising. We are both looking forward to having two days off together this week.

Townsville is so hot at times it hurts. Our location gives us a bit of a breeze but we are both working in the burbs which is noticeably hotter. Apart from our trusty van we have bought a scooter to zip around on, they are a very popular form of transport up here.

We are ambivalent about staying or going after cyclone season ends. Although we already have itchy feet, we have secure jobs and AK requires 12 months experience to enable her to gain remote contracts which will allow us to head offshore. So, in the interim Cairns jobs are being applied for!

Hi Chris and Ray, great to hear from you. Sorry to hear about Grom. Glad you enjoyed Thailand. Marg will email, you know what she is like!

and so to Bowen

With winds forecast at NE 10-15kts we pulled the anchor and departed at 0900 for Bowen. A Bowen local we met at Cid Harbour told us we could pick up a mooring in "the pond" which we were keen to do as AK was going to be in Mackay for a week.

Manatee (the only red yacht) in "the pond"

 The pond is a proposed site for a marina development and is shallow and fast flowing at flood and ebb tides which can make it difficult to pick up a mooring. The harbour and yacht club marina is very tight and a tad smelly! The yacht club has a fabulous restaurant which accurately advertises "freakingly good food". Ever concerned about our girls who love to paddle in the shallows a local informed us that no crocs lived in the area, so all was safe. Maybe the croc that lurched out of the water and grabbed a seabird was a visitor!

We visited Flagstaff Hill which offers a 360 degree view of the area and an indigenous hospitality training café offered coffee, cake and dog bowls!

looking back to Gloucester Island from Flagstaff Hill

The town makes the most of the fact that it was used to portray Darwin in Baz Luhrmann's epic Australia. It appeared that Nicole or Hugh ate at every restaurant or visited every shop.

 

Bowen is a great little town, we walked and walked, admiring the murals that cover shop walls which depict Bowen's history. To our surprise, buses stopped running around 1600hrs (gotta love country towns) so our supermarket shopping resulted in a very long walk back to Manatee.

These people appear on the mural on the supermarket car park wall.

 

 

This mural is painted in recognition of the contribution that the South Sea Island community has made to the Shire of Bowen. Jimmy Womald was a young boy when he was taken from his island MOTLEP in the Banks Group. Jim related how he thought he was put ashore at Bundaberg to work on the sugar cane field. He traveled to Mackay and then on to Bowen, where he married Lizzie from the island of FAUNALEP. They had seven children. Tomas Yasso, was bought from the island of TANNA in the New Hebrides, now Vanuatu, in the late 1800's. His younger brother, Neplio, also worked on the sugar cane fields. Tomas was brought down to the Proserpine area with his young wife Topsy Taiter. When the Government offered to return them home or stay in Australia they chose to remain and moved to Bowen.
Bowen was also the maintenance base for the Catalinas during 1942 to 1945. 

 

 

The Catalina PBY-5  is shown in this mural.

 

AK returned from a week in Mackay (and luckily picked up the van which we continue to leapfrog up the coast) only to drive Marg to the local hospital where she stayed for a few days getting treatment for pneumonia.

Where pirates abound

AK was eager to visit Dingo Beach (21nm north from Airlie and 12nm south from Bowen) so the anchor was raised at 1000hrs for the 6hr trip north. As the beach is very shallow our plan was to anchor in Jonah Bay, near Saddleback Island. "the island has been reported to have a considerable number of death adders on it (which could possible mean that it's someone's favourite fishing spot, or that there's buried treasure there....or that there are a large number of death adders"). 100Magic Miles. It was very rough, windy with short choppy seas so we continued on through Gloucester Passage (waving to the dingoes as we passed) to seek shelter - short circuiting our treasure hunt!

 

Leaving Jonah-photos never depict sea conditions!

"Gloucester Passage marks the favoured route to Bowen from the Whitsundays and takes you in between a vast and lofty wind generator, Gloucester Island and the mainland." 100 Magic Miles.

As it was dusk it was full steam ahead to find an anchorage prior to darkness. The passage was well marked with beacons although very shallow in parts.

heading toward the passage, Gloucester Island on foreground right


It was a surprise to come out the other end as our intended anchorage was chockers with yachts. A little strange we thought. With very little room we headed around Shag Islet to the next anchorage, passing a cruising shark as we left the passage. This anchorage was also pretty full but had room for us, so as the showers commenced we dropped our anchor in the bay outside Cape Gloucester Eco resort. Once settled we noticed an array of dressed yachts, many flying a pirates flag. A little strange we thought.

At least the wind sock indicated the wind!

The next morning we dinghied to the nearest beach where non-boating locals informed us it was "that yearly gathering of grubby yachts". Further inquires - Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club annual meeting. Our friend Sue who had been a member for a few years had told us about the club- everyone becomes vice commodore of a location which gives reciprocating rights at any yacht club. They have thousands of members and the annual meeting has become a mecca for some. You don't need to sail to become a member, it appears to be a finger salute to snotty yacht clubs. We met some friendly people over the weekend, attending a few functions, which was centered around Monte's Reef Resort and featured drinking and music. Unfortunately some members take their pirate image too seriously, with some of our clothing stolen. The girls had a great time romping on the dog friendly beach and partaking in some serious swimming. It was a beautiful location so after the majority of yachts left we stayed an additional week, soaking up the vista and enjoying coffee stops at Montes and indulging in dinner at the Eco Resort.

the perfect sunset with Shag Islet in the background

Ahh peace at last

AK checking out the view with the skipper of SY Prudence at Montes

 

AK was due to return to Mackay for TAFE so Bowen was our next stop. Townsville Hospital was offered as clinical placement so our plan for cruising to Cairns was altered. Plan V in our cruising life!

 

Onward to Nara

It was showery as we left Hamilton Island with the races in full swing. We took Manatee around the back of Dent Island as AK hung off attempting to get mobile and internet coverage. It was very exhilarating to make 9kts in Whitsunday Passage (wow, what strong currents!) We ended up hovering off Hamilton to get coverage. After much gnashing of teeth we dropped Manatee's anchor at Joe's Beach Whitsunday Island for lunch. Lots of dolphins frolicking eased AK's blood pressure- gotta love bureaucracy!

Joe's Beach

"Because the anchorage is either in, or very near, the narrow channel between Cid and Whitsunday Islands, these locations are subject to tidal influences and are not really satisfactory overnight anchorages."  100 Magic Miles was spot on, it was very entertaining to watch yachts doing 360 turns in the current. I'm sure the bare boat charterers would have been thrilled to see their hire boats "doing donuts".

We moved down to Cid Harbour for the night.

Winds were forecast 25-30kts from the south-east so we stayed put for another day and night in the very full anchorage.

Eventually the wind dropped to 10-15kts so we headed over to Nara Inlet on Hook Island. Ooh la la! Nara Inlet is gorgeous. Clear water, splendid beaches, no mobile coverage, wondrous rock formations, peace, unspoilt bush and the remains of Indigenous rock art. In the wet season apparently waterfalls abound. The inlet is also a hammerhead shark breeding ground - so no swimming.

We all jumped in the dinghy to explore and on returning to Manatee Marg managed to embed our trolling lure in her wrist. Ouch. AK found it impossible to dislodge so after a VHF call for assistance, Laura a Finnish A&E nurse who had a crew position on Coral Trecker ("sail the Whitsundays on a square rigger") came over to remove it. Apparently lots of Finnish fisher people lodge hooks in various body parts so she was very experienced!

The next day we trekked up to the Ngaro cultural site to view the art- amazing! The art has been dated to 9000 years and due to dust and age some bits have faded. Although the Ngaro were seafarers, travelling the coast in bark canoes, when Nara Inlet was first used as shelter by the Ngaro people it was part of the mainland. Melting ice changed that!
  
                                       

What remains

What was

Ngaro oral accounts are provided at the cultural site through this cool speaker. It is clear that there would be many sites like this on Hook Island- this is the one Ngaro people like us to visit.

After a few amazing days it was time for us to continue north before the weather turned nasty.

 

We were grateful for the time we spent at this magical spot.