leaving Venice

Yes, Anni we have left Venice! We have had (and continue to have) very limited reception and are experiencing email glitches, so the blog is way behind.

So, a quick catch up......we left the 'pond' for the marina at Scarborough to give ourselves some luxury before we slipped Manatee.

Leaving Venice

We spent a few nights tucked away from the strong winds and enjoying water and power 'on tap'. Idgi made the most of her time, exploring every nook and cranny, while we got some R & R.

Idgi checking everything out

On the morning of our slipping, the rain howled and the winds gave us a very bumpy ride across the bay. AK had to continually wipe down the windows to give Marg some visibility so she had a chance to see the river markers. We managed due to Marg's excellent helming to miss a grounding in a notoriously shallow section of the river. We arrived at the slip-way at the pre-arranged time to find Manatee was a very snug fit in the cradle.

a snug fit


Ruby helping move the cradle

Our expected 3 day anti-fouling extended into weeks as the scope for our work expanded. The yard was very cheap ($150 per week), compared to city prices ($100 per day), so we got as much done as possible.


last anti-foul was 2007-not much growth!

We anti-fouled, then gave Manatee a new colour scheme as well as re-doing the anti-slip on her decks (AK had almost gone a over t during the recent storms in the area). We changed the deck colour from buttermilk (pale yellow) to silver grey (blue/grey) as the latter will be cooler in this hot climate. We have continued to use Jotun products, although we have tried super tropic anti-foul this time rather than sea guardian. We have also tried lanolin spray along the water line and on the rudder as this apparently will stop growth. We again used prop speed as our prop was surprisingly clean and neither of us like scraping the prop in the water.

Change of deck colour

Some areas of Manatee's gunnel's needed some epoxy bog as our (past) novice attempts at berthing caused some magnificent scrapes. Although we had kept the paint up to them, Manatee has a zinc coating over her steel which doesn't allow most paints to stick, causing the dreaded bubble. Marg pulled out all the batteries and tidied up wiring. She also pulled out the fridge and removed some lining to allow better access for hull inspections. AK changed oil in the generator, cleaned the bilge, painted the interior of the wheelhouse and did some rust work. We worked on the dinghy davits and sanded and oiled Manatee's teak. The 3 porthole windows from the wheelhouse into the single cabin were pulled and replaced as they were very scratched and there was some rust evident in the surrounds. We also raised the waterline-oops maybe we are accumulating too much stuff!

the fun of anti-fouling

The girls were welcome and enjoyed the novelty of the yard. Jacki and Ruby revelled in hanging with the yard lads who shared their lunch. They became very independent which equalled naughty! Occasionally one dog would disappear and upon questioning someone would say "Oh yes I saw Pearl heading that way with a piece of pizza" or "Ruby is in the grass, eating a pie". On the morning of our departure, Jacki was seen in a shed with a string of sausages, too busy to leave. Their usual diet is very healthy so they delighted in the change.

They all made friends with Shaun's dog Pep who graciously allowed them to dig up his bones. Pep has been the only dog they have welcomed on to Manatee, even allowing him to nap in their bed.

Idgi surveying her new territory

Idgi became proficient at navigating the ladder, while AK and Marg developed biceps from carrying the dogs up and down.

Jacki can always find a comfy spot to rest

Between the hard work we kept the girls amused with walks along the bay, listened and learnt lots of tricks from steel boat owners and did a full check of Manatee's hull looking for any signs of rust. Overall, Manatee is in excellent condition. Nights were occasionally spent looking at the clear country sky with its splatter of bright stars.


the view through the hatch above the bed

Our re-launching was a day of much celebration! We enlisted some friends to help fend Manatee off the cradle to preserve her pristine paintwork.

Chris helping by supervising Pep

returning the guys to the yard

Shaun ready to fend

It was great meeting these guys, we saw the creation of boat 'legs' which will allow hull work without the need for slipping (the legs attach to the mid way point along the hull and stand the boat up in the shallows/on a sand bank), Chris & Shaun explained how they have pulled the fossil fuel motors from their yachts and have replaced them with electric motors, and we learnt about the joy of sailing in the Torres Strait and how to travel the top end in cyclone season.

Idgi had a minor altercation with a tom in the yard, causing a nasty wound which was starting to heal nicely until she went swimming. We had been out most of the day (with the dogs) and Manatee was rafted up to Tony's barge in the river, which Idgi was enjoying exploring.

Idgi exploring the barge

..and ignoring the signs

We returned at nightfall to find Idgi was missing. We called and searched, alas no sign of Captain Idgi. After a few days AK had given her up for dead, Marg wanted to complete one last trawl of the river which we did in June with Ruby sitting on the bow howling for her cat. A run past the boat yard and we had a lead on Idge. She had been seen and was found living in a shed. Clever cat had made her way back to the yard. She had completed a substantial swim, avoiding the bull sharks and made her way through the mangroves to the yard. We all did a happy dance-the pack was complete again! Unfortunately the wound looked nasty, so a trip to the vet extended to surgery and an overnight stay. Her convalescence was stressful for AK & Marg as she was a determined and stroppy patient (traits that probably kept her alive), who decided that a drain and stitches were not required.

poor Idgi

her summer bonnet

Idge has healed and continues to remind us that she is Captain. The dogs are relieved and itching to get on the move again. Hooray.....here comes the wide expanse of Moreton Bay!

heading back to Moreton Bay

We have plenty of photos to add, alas internet cafes suck!

Hooray, a computer that works!

Manatee visits Australia's own Venice

We spent a few days been knocked by tide against wind in Deception Bay with constant pitching and rolling. Getting to shore was uncomfortable and wet and, as we had things to do in the area we were hesitant to move to another corner of the bay to seek shelter. So we decided to up anchor and head into the 'duck pond' in the Newport canals, which is a suburb of the Redcliffe Peninsular. The pond is in a cul-de-sac in the estate which appears to be waiting further developement. The very assertive ducks checked us out first thing and the huge crows marked their new territory by crapping all over the deck. The fur family seemed very busy with other things.

On the pond

We had just dropped anchor when Ginny and Cath, sailors from further north stopped by on their planned visit. It's always nice to have a cuppa with women sailors!

During our visits to shore from Deception Bay we decided that we really did need a bigger tender, especially in winter as whoever wasn't driving Ini our wonderful tender got very wet and cold weighing down her bow. We decided on a 'tinnie' to be safer from coral and crocodile teeth when we headed further north. Lots of time spent on ebay and searching papers saw us driving many miles in the search for our new tender. None were right for us...too big, too small, crappy motor, poorly patched holes. So our search continued.

Steph our dear friend from Sydney emailed us to say she had a work conference at the Gold Coast, so we jumped in the car with the girls and drove down for a visit before her conference started. It was great to see her (the first time since we had left Sydney) as we had missed her (and Elle's) holidays in Lake Macquarie and Noosa by a matter of days. Her stories about work in the public sector and Sydney made us feel glad we are no longer in that space, even though we miss our friends.

Steph looking very Sydney and Marg very Gold Coast!

On our way back up the coast we dropped into a marina and got chatting to a guy who took us to meet his boss who had a tinnie for sale. She was the marina manager and her tinnie was a much cared for allycraft with a yamaha motor. Sold! Even though she was bigger than we intended, she has a solid wooden sole which makes her very stable. Her name is June and even Idgi seems impressed.

We have remained in the duck pond for longer than we had intended as we both are laid low with a shocking bout of the flu.

Manatee mooches round Moreton Bay

On our first evening at anchor a few dolphins came by to check us out, a different 'type', quite small with white edging to their dorsal fins. As usual, everybody on Manatee was excited, especially when the dolphins began leaping and "flippering".

Spot the dolphins....not!


So enjoy the sunset instead

We will probably hang around Moreton Bay until we can get into Monty's (up the Caboolture River) for Manatee's lift and scrub. We are hoping to get a mooring up the Brisbane River after Monty's as apparently anchoring is a bit dicey in the silt and mud of the river. It's probably good timing for us as lots of boaties are heading north for the season, leaving some moorings free. If we manage to get work we need to feel Manatee is secure and not dragging.

After a day and a bit in Deception Bay we up anchored and headed across the bay for a change of scenery and to give the engine a good test under load.

Sailing with the Glasshouse Mountains as a backdrop

We anchored in Pumicestone Passage, Bribie Island, for the night and enjoyed it so much we stayed for 3. It was very tempting to swim in the crystal clear water, but Ruby was the only one who ventured in. We all enjoyed our walks along the beach and the nightly visit by dolphins.

The jetty at Bongaree on Bribie Island

On our last morning as we were tidying up to leave, Marg called out "there is a really large yacht

heading straight at us". It turned out to be Lee Roper who recognised Manatee from Laurieton. Lee had stopped in Laurieton last year on his way to Brisbane delivering his late father's yacht, a spray. He anchored, and came aboard for a cuppa and a catch up.

We then up anchored and headed out. We got as far as the first markers when AK noticed the engine overheating. A quick check showed the sea water pump leaking. One of the ordered parts that didn't turn up was a brass screw so we were given alternate stainless screws - not a successful alternative! So back to our anchorage and hours spent pulling the pump apart. The original screw was utilised and engine tested OK. The good part of the saga was that we spent the evening chatting to Lee, drinking wine and having a great time. Lee has been sailing since he was a toddler so has lots of sailing stories and has designed and built his yacht, a Roper 43. It is the ultimate cruising yacht, beamy like a spray, a retractable keel which means he can beach her and a cockpit and saloon similar to a catamaran, but in a mono. Affinity also has the same perkins model as Manatee, so Lee was eager to discuss problem solving a perkins.

We dinghied back to Manatee just in time to avoid the strong SW that hit the anchorage. It was a rough night which we weren't prepared for, so things went bump all night.

Manatee in the anchorage on a calmer day

We headed out the next morning and anchored in Deception Bay.

Manatees introduction to the Slocum Spray Society

We headed into Moreton Bay with a planned stop at Manly Harbour. We stayed at the lovely East Coast Marina for a few days to dry everything out and let Idgi stretch her legs. Highly recommended spot.

Manly Harbour. A small harbour with 3 marinas.

We left the dock at Manly, on Tuesday just after lunch, with our plan being to anchor in the northern part of Moreton Bay for an overnighter before heading to Maryborough the following morning.

Moreton Bay is delightful, a wide expanse of water which appears even bigger than Sydney Harbour due to its low mangrove coastline. Instead of Sydney’s 15-25M depths, Moreton Bay is very shallow, we experienced less than 1M in sections. Thankfully, Manatee is a shallow drafted spray.

Negotiating the Brisbane shipping channel was a tense period, so Margot, who was helming, kept the speed slow. We had to wait for a few massive container ships to pass so Manatee could continue her path behind them. We realised not long after the shipping channel, that if we were to make a calm anchorage before night fell, Manatee’s speed would need to be increased. As usual, we carefully monitored temps and pressures. As the light faded, we knew we could not reach Deception Bay before dark, so anchored off Redcliffe. As she turned the anchor power off, AK noticed that the engine temperature was extreme, much higher than the normal operating temperature. After quickly turning off the donk we settled in for an uncomfortable night, with Manatee pitching in the rough conditions. Margot set the alarm for watches throughout the night, but thankfully Manatee’s anchor held firm.

Wednesday morning brought calmer conditions, so a check of the oil and coolant (which we always check before starting the donk) revealed good levels of both. We cranked over Manatee’s usually reliable Perkins 4236 and let her reach operating temperature (about 85C) whilst still at anchor. Damn, the temperature went through the roof. We did a quick check whilst she was running to make sure she hadn’t sprung a hose and that the water pump was operating. AK noticed that the thermostat housing was too hot to touch. Oh no. Not again. We let the donk cool down and then pulled the thermostat housing. Checked the thermostat and it tested as working. Lesson learnt – don’t jump to conclusions too quickly! The next step was to remove the plate for the coolant header tank (the feeder tank which we check runs in to the header tank)…..empty. Damn – looks like the dreaded air bubble.

So….out with the gasket goo and seal the thermostat housing. Let it set and test – leaks. Remove and repeat – leaks. Two days later and on our last bit of gasket goo we thought more about plan B – a tow to a wharf with a mechanic close at hand. Reminiscing on our experiences with mechanics in Sydney, we realised that a tradesperson who understood the Perkins workhorse was required. After a check of the internet (what would Joshua Slocum think of that?) AK called the President of the Slocum Spray Society, Barry Moore for a recommendation. Barry then generously took the matter in hand and arranged the coast guard for a tow and a berth at the Moreton Bay Boat Club.

Our tow to Scarborough Harbour by the Coast Guard

Thursday at dusk saw Manatee embarrassingly towed to the breakdown berth at the club with a visit later to the bistro for dinner with Barry and his wife Jacki. Barry was very pleased as it just so happened the annual spray regatta was on the following weekend! The lovely Jacki very kindly allowed Barry time off from preparing for their upcoming cruise preparations to assist us. Further discussions with Barry around the need to get the thermostat housing machined resulted in the very kind offer of his assistance in sorting out the problem. “They call me McIver”, he said.

Friday at 8am Barry presented himself, so he and AK further investigated the engine problem. Meanwhile Margot took the dogs for a long walk and dinghy ride. Barry suggested pulling a few more bits apart to rule out sea water problems after our recent groundings. Barry said, “my fee is $40” – which is the cost of membership of the association! Barry then drove Margot around the area sourcing parts and talking to machinists. So we joined the association and attended some of the regatta events ( Marg crewed on the beautiful Florrisant), saw some gorgeous sprays and met some lovely people. What an introduction – what a welcome!

We waited for a week for the ordered parts, meanwhile AK hired a cheap car and drove to Maryborough to pick up some urgent mail and then returned to pick up everyone (except Idge who stayed and looked after Manatee) for a trip to pick up our car at Pete at Michael's at Murwillumbah. After an overnighter where the girls got to meet their cousin Topsy (another jack russell) we returned to Manatee.

After putting the engine cooling system back together we left the breakdown berth and headed outside the harbour to anchor in Deception Bay.

Manatee seeks shelter from the storm

The trip up the broadwater, via Main Channel, to Jacobs Well was beautiful, quite an amazing waterway. They do say there are 2 types of boaties up here....those that have grounded in the broadwater and those that haven't, yet!

Our first was near Tuleen Island. AK was helming, so tried reverse...nothing. Finally the wake from a plastic fantastic (luckily you don't have to wait too long up here for one to pass!) gave enough depth to move Manatee.

The shoals charted near Woogoompah Island show a dredged depth of 2M LWS.....it is currently 1M, but Marg managed to avoid a grounding here. But didn't avoid it at Jacobs Well near the moored boats where we waited for the rising tide to give us depth.

Jacki, tired from assisting

We anchored further down the channel off Kangaroo Island where it was sheltered from the forecast 50kts winds. We spent 2 days with horizontal rain and wind that made it difficult to walk on deck. Idgi put on her grumpy face. Jacki got clingy. Ruby took great delight in sleeping downstairs. Pearl slept through it all. AK and Marg took turns in keeping watch. Our instruments showed only 37kts but it was scary, a real test for our anchor. Although our rode was only 4X depth it held beautifully but it was a strain on the winch when it came time to up anchor, it was buried so deep.

Our view for 2 days

We then headed for Moreton Bay when it was calm enough to continue, but due to dusk and another grounding near the OH wires at Russell Island we anchored between Macleay and Kangaroo Islands for the night. The warning went from gale to strong wind so it was a reasonably pleasant night.

Yahoo, waking up to blue skies

We awoke to blue skies so headed on up to Moreton Bay.

Another dimension? Nah just the Gold Coast!

We spent a couple of weeks anchored at the Marine Stadium, also known as "Bum's Bay". I now believe every Queenslander must own a jet ski, most appear to like speeding and doing donuts! After the first night anchored off Seaworld (where we could hear the commentary from the tourist aquaduck that launched from a ramp 20m away...."Those boats mostly come from down south, stay here for a few days and then go further north. Look there's one from Tasmania"- does one wave or what?) we moved further down into the bay. Marg went jetstar to Newcastle for Greg's 60th birthday on Saturday and returned on Monday. Happy Birthday Greg!

Manatee in the bay

On Saturday night the winds (SE) came up and the bay got a good rolling swell. Manatee tossed all night and AK was concerned about the anchor dragging so the alarm was set for numerous anchor checks. It was the first time AK felt that if anything went wrong, she could move Manatee on her own - a real breakthrough.

The bay is fairly shallow but clean and it was a pleasant walk to public transport. Probably best avoided on weekends unless one likes rowdy bucks parties (houseboats) and bbq pontoons. Blissful during the week.

Oops a little shallow!

Marg's brother Peter and his partner Michael came up from Murwillumbah for a visit the following weekend and it was great to catch up.

We decided to go further north early the next week after we received a delivery of stern tube oil, from Lismore of all places. It turns out it has the same specifications of gear oil, but we weren't to know. The oil turned up on Monday, so we took Manatee down towards Southport Yacht Club to pick it up. The rain then started and pelted down making visibility zero. We quickly picked up a Dept of Transport mooring near the Nerang River bridge and waited out the rain which didn't clear until the next morning - a sign of things to come!

Idge sitting in the rain checking out the city

On Tuesday the weather was clearly going to get worse with 40kt winds forecast so we headed north into the broadwater and found a safe anchorage at Jacobs Well in a bay surrounded by mangroves.

Goodbye Gold Coast

Moonlit night, calm seas, where else would we want to be

On Thursday we awoke to good weather so on the flood tide we left Iluka/Yamba bar at 1500hrs - destination the Gold Coast Seaway.

Once we passed over the swelly bar we had a wonderful time with a moonlit night, calm seas and our dolphin friends for company.

Sunset over NSW

We spent our off watch hours mostly asleep in the wheel house where we can stretch out on a mattress. It was a beautiful uneventful night and we averaged around 5 kts for the journey.

Sunrise over the Gold Coast

Ruby napping after crewing all night

The Gold Coast Seaway (bar) was wild - surfers on boards paddling across, a yacht at anchor, barges dredging sand and the inevitable jetski riding the swell. Marg managed to navigate through without colliding with anything- a wonderful feat!