Into the blue

 

We set out for Howick Island, 30nm from Lizard, in SE winds 20-25kts. Furler trouble, so we sailed with 3 reefs in the main and the storm jib. The seas were horrendous and we experienced gusts to 30kts. Happy to anchor at Howick Island after 6 hours where we then took turns at anchor watch overnight.


Passing Watsons Island named after Mary Watson



Exhausted the next morning, we pulled up the anchor at 0930 for the 25nm journey to Ninian Bay. All tired and grumpy we motored with the storm jib up as a steadying sail. Arriving in the bay we saw our first dugong since Great Keppel-very exciting. We motored around trying to find the perfect sheltered spot and finally dropped our anchor in very shallow water at 1430. We chilled for the next day!

We were all more relaxed the next morning so made the decision to head for the Flinders Island Group 30nm away. Perfect choice! The seas were kind and we experienced great sailing at 7kts, even managing to kick start the furler. The seas picked up outside Owen Passage which runs between the two main islands- Stanley and Flinders.




Approaching Flinders Island

We anchored off Aapa Spit (above) which for thousands of years was the meeting place of  the Yiithuwarra people. For 70 years in the 1900's the spit sited a shop, sheds and a house for the fishing community which was established here. The advent of barges which can supply fuel and water meant the demise of this regular community. We spent a few days here exploring, walking and eating oysters off the rocks, being croc aware after noticing a slide on our first walk. One night accompanying Ruby on one of her midnight wanders around the deck,  I saw that the bay was filled with a dozen or more dolphins - what an amazing experience.

The days were very windy and at night we started to roll at anchor. Khylie and Christian from SY Brunhilda dropped by for a cuppa and suggested we move to Frederick Point which was a little more protected. So after 5 days at the spit we moved Manatee where we enjoyed sundowners at the National Parks Campsite with the crews from Brunhilda and SY Overdie.

One morning at high tide we took the dinghy across to Stanley Island for a walk to the Aboriginal art caves.

 

 

 

 

 

beach on Stanley Island

A very spiritual place. The islands had many sacred spots including burial and initiation sites. What a fantastic history we have.

After a few days (the crocs were getting too close) we bid farewell to Erica and Andy from Overdie who were going no further north and agreeing to meet up again with Khylie and Christian who are also sailing to Darwin, we headed around to Stokes Bay on Stanley Island prior to heading further into the blue. 

Flat out like a lizard drinking

 

We completed the 18nm to Lizard Island in a little over 4 hrs, finally anchoring in Mrs Watsons Bay around 1630. Winds were fairly kind at 15-20kts. Lots of yachts (at times) in the anchorage, some on their yearly pilgrimage to this yachting mecca, others part of the Island Cruising Associations' rally to Indonesia (around 36 chose to come to Lizard from Cairns from the 51 taking part). Unless yachts are going across to Darwin or taking part in the yearly rally they turn around here and beat back into seas after September. 

 

For Manatee's crew it was 2 weeks of relaxing.

 

 

The Dingaal Aboriginal owners called Lizard Island Jiigurru and it is a sacred place. The island was not only used as an initiation site but it was a place of plenty. Dingaal paddled across from the mainland to harvest turtles, shellfish, dugongs and fish. Lots of middens here!

 

Gould's sand monitor (goanna)

 

 Lizard Island was given its name by Captain Cook when he climbed the island's summit to sight a pass through the maze of the Great Barrier Reef in 1770.  He had his crew row him over in a pinnace from the mainland- they must have been fit! He commented, "The only land Animals we saw here were Lizards, and these seem'd to be pretty Plenty, which occasioned my naming the Island Lizard Island". These lizards were Gould's sand monitors and the island still has a colony, although the only lizards we saw were around the research station where they scavenge for food.

 

the island's summit "Cook's Look"

We spent a day climbing the summit and the views were fantastic!

 

 

 

Half way up the summit there was a grand view of the anchorage. Just near the group of three yachts (Manatee is the red yacht), is a patch of reef called the "clam garden" - magnificent snorkelling!

We climbed to this spot more than once as it also had phone reception.

 

The bay just past the anchorage is where the Lizard Island Resort sits. Damaged two years running in cyclones, it is being re-built and re-landscaped. Despite this the tariff is still over $1600 per person!

 

view of the lagoon from Cook's Look

 

 

Marg at Cook's cairn

In 1880 the Watson family settled on the island to harvest beche-de-mer and while her husband and his partner were off the island the settlement was "attacked" by Dingaals. A Chinese servant was killed, Mary, her baby and another Chinese servant escaped in a beche-de-mer tub to a nearby island where they perished. Mary and her baby are buried in Cooktown cemetery.

Perhaps the attack occurred because this was a sacred site! 

Beche-de-mer harvesting was abandoned.

The bay bears the name Mrs Watson's in memory of Mary.

 

Mrs Watson's Bay

 

We also took daily dinghy rides to nearby beaches where we snorkelled the reef while Ruby regained the use of her land legs! She has become a surfer on board Manatee.

 

Ruby being sensible on her outing to either....

 

Mermaid Cove or

 

Turtle Beach

 

We also walked the island. The southern aspect was glorious- the lagoon magical.

 

The Lizard Island Research Station , in the next bay along from the lagoon, was welcoming (thanks Lyle!). It was established in 1973 and is owned by the Australian Museum, although funded privately by a foundation. Their library was amazing - always nervous around sharks I found the photos of the species of "nervous shark" intriguing. Lyle gave a group of us a tour of the facility and confirmed that crocs and bull sharks visited the island - obviously not publicised widely due to the resort. A post-grad student explained that his research entailed studying two controlled tanks (one with humbugs and one without) to establish whether fish poop slowed coral bleaching which is due to global warming. Oh I wish I'd studied to be a marine biologist! Students were seen regularly in the facilities tenders visiting parts of the reef.

Walking around the island to the research station

 

 

 

 

 

beach in front of research station

We also, with the assistance from the crew of Samantha (thanks Andrena and Shawn), fixed our halyard problem and, we hoped, the furler. The HF antenna was unrepairable, thankfully the radio is still operational. 

We also joined other yachties for evening sundowners most nights on the beach.

We WERE flat out like lizards drinking!

 

Cruisin' in 15

We bid adieu to Port in late June and sailed across to Low Isles to get our heads and Manatee into cruising mode. Weather forecast was for a strong wind warning so we walked the island and relaxed on the near empty beach. Felt sorry for the tourists who came across to enjoy the reef-visibility was very poor due to the strong winds-ferocious enough to blow our HF radio antenna off the mast! Needless to say we didn't feel like swimming.

Beautiful Low

After 4 days we had a weather window so Ruby vocally encouraged us to get a move on-a walk was overdue. We had very heavy showers in 20kts of wind so sailed under genoa only. Off Cape Tribulation a very large wave entered the wheelhouse which surprised us all - Ruby looked accusingly at us! Of course the genoa wouldn't re-furl when it was time, shoulda had that shakedown cruise. 

After a 8 hour sail we anchored at Hope Island lagoon and noticed the genoa halyard was off- shoulda, shoulda.

We completed many circuits of the island which pleased Ruby. The winds were 30kts+. The only notable moment was a shark feeding in the shallows. Needless to say we didn't fancy swimming. After 4 days the winds abated so we sailed to Cooktown to get bits for the furler.

Ruby was very excited to be back at Cooktown (or Kookytown as some call it). She made a beeline for the Sovereign Hotel where, months previously, she enjoyed a sneaky night watching TV in a air-conditioned room. We caught up with friends and replenished our fresh food supply...and just enjoyed being there.

Cray boat seeking shelter in Cooktown's entrance channel

Sunny but still windy-locals at the jetty

Five days later the winds had dropped to 20-25, gusting 30kts so it was a chance to move further north. We almost turned back on the way to Cape Bedford which is so rough it causes seasoned sailors to spew! After 4 hours sailing we ducked around the corner of the Cape to anchor in shallow protected waters. The site of the old Hopevale Mission was here (it has since moved), and the soil is so sandy it is obvious why the move was necessary-they were expected to grow their own food which would have been virtually impossible given the site. We were so close to shore Manatee sat on the bottom at low tide.

The next morning we managed to sail up to 5kts in variable winds to Cape Flattery. The southern (ish) side of the Cape is a huge wharf for the silica mine and the northern (ish)  aspect is the site of many fishing camps. After 3 hrs Ruby was walked on a gorgeous beach. We all wanted to luxuriously roll in the beautiful sand. Very happy, alas no fish. The locals camping also had no luck.

Cape Flattery beach


The next morning we awoke to a pod of dolphins around Manatee- very auspicious.
At 1300 we pulled up the anchor-destination LIzard Island.


Chris and Ray- Marg has temporarily lost your email address! Could you email manateegirls@gmail.com!

Port Douglas = work & road trips!

  

So we returned to Dickson Inlet Port Douglas for the wet season which didn't eventuate. We were told it was the driest wet season in memory. We didn't undertake any major boat works this stop although we did haul out for a clean, reconditioned the anchor winch motor and re-painted the decks a paler colour as it was too hot to walk on them this far north.The paler colour does help. We both worked as much as possible to stock up the kitty. We also enjoyed lots of road trips!

Ruby ready to go!


Our first trip was back to Townsville to pick up the van and scooter, so we hired a "hippy van" and made our way slowly down the coast. Our first overnighter was a Cairns beach where I had camped back in the 70's.
 After loading the scooter we headed back via the inland route to get in as much sightseeing on the land as possible.

We stopped overnight at Paronella Park near Innisfail which was built by a Spanish cane worker for his wife between 1929-1935. It was their Spanish castle of dreams beside Mena Creek waterfall which was later opened to the public, powered entirely by a hydro-electric plant on Mena Creek Falls. The castle's great hall had silver chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and dances were regularly held there.

In 1946 the site was flooded when the dams bridge burst by a pile up of cedar logs. In the 70's fire swept through pretty much destroying most of the buildings. Then there was a cyclone. A couple travelling past appreciated the history and romance of Paronella and are slowly bringing life back to the park. The gardens were fabulous!


We also had a few trips to the Daintree area.....

Daintree rainforest

Daintree River near township

We also spent time exploring Cairns and its district.......

Palm Cove, looking across to Double Island



Kuranda park

Cyclone Nathan also made a few passes at Port early in the year-we tidied the boat decks and removed awnings the first time so it was easier when the area went into yellow mode the second time the cyclone was imminent, we just pulled up the anchor and found a spot in the mangroves up river. It was good practice!



Crowded river during cyclone Nathan

We also took a trip by road up to Cape York (not the tip!) and sold lots of our goods at Cooktown markets staying at the beautiful Sovereign Hotel. Ruby was most impressed!

Amazing art at Cape York 


We stayed in a little motel at Laura which was clearly a local cow's grazing pasture!

And we stopped for lunch at the quaint Lions Den Hotel where local miners were known to write up how much the owed the inn keeper by writing on the walls. Tourists now use the walls for their messages.

We stopped at markets near Cedar Bay...

and at Black Mountain (Kalkajaka - place of the spear) where people have disappeared into tunnels to escape capture by police


It was a busy 7 months and we were eager to continue north. We did spend some time in Port Douglas. 4 Mile Beach was spectacular,

the local markets fabulous,


and we had great anchorage neighbours!


Bye Bye Port!



 

Oh no we're going south!

By the time October was nearing its end and the trade winds rarely dropped below 25kts we realised pushing north to Lizard was not one of our best plans. So, on the 29th October we had SE winds at 10-15kts which were not too bad to head in to. We upped anchor at 0950 hrs for Hope Islands. We sailed near visible schools of mackerel but surprise, surprise no fish for dinner. We anchored at East Hope at 1400 hrs. The next day was perfect so we snorkeled and fished and Marg practiced using her cast net and caught 3 herring-hooray..
Our log reads "doing lots of reading and walking...no telephone or internet-could stay here forever." It was not a good thought to return to Cairns for cyclone season and work.

We were joined in the anchorage by a few yachts from Port Douglas. All members of the local yacht club and very fine fellows they were! Robert and Roxy from T-Break supplied us with fish which they easily caught and they all convinced us to see out cyclone season in Port Douglas. We headed south for Port on the 6th November nursing hangovers after farewell drinks with the boys!

Roxy from T-Break at Hope Island

Remembering Cooktown

 

On Thursday 9th October we dragged up our anchor at 1000 hrs to head to Cooktown. We trolled and caught no fish, what a surprise! The winds were variable so we had an uneventful trip. The channel entering Cooktown was horrendous - we needed to continue north and then tack south to make the channel markers. The channel was very rolly with dredging taking place as well. We entered the very crowded harbour (the Endeavour River) managing to miss all the sandbars and anchored at 1400 hrs.

Sunset over Endeavour River

We spent a few days walking around the town, exploring and getting ready to head further north to Lizard Island when.....the infamous weather of Cooktown set in: miserable stuff. At times it was difficult to hop into the tender the harbour was sooo rough. So we made the most of our forced stay and ended up loving the place.

The banks of the Endeavour River are parkland and the main street almost follows the river. Of course there are lots of monuments to Cook. A short stroll along from where the Endeavour careened for repairs is a spot named reconciliation rocks. "It was on these rocks that a group of eleven Guugu Yimithirr men and James Cook and several of his companions reconciled their differences and restored the peace and friendship that was the defining nature of the Europeans' stay in Endeavour River." 

Reconciliation Rocks

Cooks memorial near careening spot of Endeavour

The parks had copious numbers of mango trees bursting with fruit. Lucky us! It wasn't tourist season as it was too hot and cyclone season was almost upon us, so we probably saw Cooktown at its best and most relaxed. 

Lynda and Charlie from yacht New Horizons were also in town from Townsville (as were 2 other yachts) so we tried out barefoot bowling with them and had many laughs, mainly at my expense because I'm a crappy bowler!

the bowling team

We spent many a happy afternoon at an informal gathering of yachties and locals on a verandah overlooking the river. Cooktown is an unusual town filled with eccentrics and others. The last big cyclone which just missed the town saw the locals locked in the evacuation centre while police did warrant checks on everyone, not one of their best public relations exercises. 

The Musuem, which was once a convent boarding school was fantastic, we spent hours there checking out the Endeavour memorabilia, reading stories of the Guugu Yimithirr people as well as contemplating the Catholic relics.

Cooktown museum...sure looks like my old convent school

recovered Endeavour anchor, with canon in background

One early story......" Prior to the 10th June 1770, we the Koko Yalanji and Guugu Yimithirr were open to the concept of others. We would observe strange sailing vessels going by and we were usually aware of their purpose. They would be looking for fish, dugong, beche de mer, trochus or shells. But they were transients. They did not intend to stay. And they always left.On the morning of 11th June, 1770 a strange large canoe which the coastal people had kept under observation was seen just east of Kurangee now known as Cape Tribulation. It appeared that something was not right. Our Guugu Yimithirr ancestors considered that these boat people like others who came and went would not cause problems."  Wonderful stuff.

The Europeans did leave more than memories- their pigs escaped while work was underway and the "Captain Cooker", a descendant of the European wild boar, made its entry into the area. The ship's botanists recorded 180 plants new to science, including the cabbage tree palm and the Cooktown orchid.

In 1873 Cooktown became the sea port for the rapidly growing Palmer Goldfields. At one time Chinese made up the bulk of the population and merchants did business via trading ships with China and Singapore. Cooktown's Chinatown was enormous and included a temple. Unfortunately nothing of it now remains, although the cemetery does carry reminders.

Photo of Cooktown's tent city during the Palmer gold rush

One morning we set out walking up the hill (Grassy Hill) which we were told had amazing views in addition to a lighthouse. We were doing well until a local woman insisted we get into her car "you girls ARE NOT walking up that hill in this heat". Oh well we tried, and yes the views were spectacular.

"Before long the bright rays of our light will be glowing over the waste waters, carrying comfort and an assurance of safety to mariners who have to thread the intrictate navigation of our coast-no better monument could be erected to the memory of Capt James Cook." Cooktown Courier, 1885.

Marg doing the tourist bit

views over the river

We were sad when it was time to leave.