After our second night at Rattlesnake we left for Fantome Island with SE winds 5-10kts at 1000. When we were 4nm SW of Havanah Island we saw our first whale of the season-hooray! We arrived at Fantome's Juno Bay at 1630 but after assessing the anchorage headed over to the shelter of Orpheus Island where it was not likely to be as choppy. We anchored in Hazard Bay (site of the resort) at 1500 and settled in for a quiet night.
Orpheus Island is National Park and the resort at Hazard Bay caters to 20 odd "indulged guests". For two days we had frequent helicopters fly guests in from Townsville. Needless to say day trippers are not welcomed! The island is fringed by coral reefs and has about 340 of the 350 known types of coral. It really is beautiful. Hazard Bay has huge coral bommies that we spent two days drifting over in the dinghy-fabulous.
After two days we took Manatee back to Fantome Island for a picnic. We anchored in 9m surrounded by huge coral bommies just off the fringing reef. As we took the dinghy ashore we were greeted by a bloke with a dead goat slung around his shoulders and his hunting dog. Ruby and AK walked in the opposite direction while Marg had a chat. Russell was from Great Palm and the residents made use of the goats living on the island.
Fantome Island was the site of a lock hospital for Aboriginal, Torres Strait Island and South Sea Island people suffering from sexually-transmitted infections from 1928-1945, and was also the site of a "hospital" for Aboriginal, Torres Strait Island and South Sea Island people with Hansen’s disease (leprosy) from 1939 to 1973. Cared for by nuns from the Franciscan Missionaries of Mary their isolation on Fantome Island was the consequence of policies developed by the Queensland Government. Remains of the orchard can be seen and some building fragments litter the area.
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| Marg & Ruby walk the orchard remains |
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| church remains |
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| historical photos |
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| and yes there is beauty remaining |
We then returned to Orpheus Island to catch up with Tacey and Ted from Qantam Leap, friends from Townsville, in Little Pioneer Bay. We managed to snag a mooring which saved us from trying to anchor (and possibly damage) coral. James Cook University's Orpheus Island Research Station is located within Pioneer Bay and is on the site of a former fishing lease. Pioneer Bay has National Park facilities and a short walk uphill takes you to a crumbling rock hut.
"Orpheus was a supremely gifted minstrel who had been taught to play the lyre by Apollo, and such was his skill on the instrument, together with the sweetness of his singing voice, that he could charm wild animals and even cause trees to uproot themselves and follow in his steps. Jason and the Argonauts took him along when they quested after the Golden Fleece, and Orpheus saved them from shipwreck by drowning out the treacherously alluring voices of the Sirens with his own musical stylings."
We did hear music while here and I had presumed it was Tacey playing her cello, later I realised it is our newly tuned rigging! A whale and her calf visited the anchorage calmly frolicking metres from yachts and she gave a farewell wave from the research station. The coral and fish just outside the bay was stunning. Giant clams were once "grown" here after fishing had diminished them and they grew prolificly. We could spy only smallish ones. There were heaps of turtles and stingrays as well.
A couple on kayaks hailed us one morning- it was Derek from Laurieton fish co-op! He and Belinda were returning from Lizard Island in his new yacht Silver Lady. We had a cuppa while drooling over Silver Lady's gorgeous fit-out.
On the 4th we dropped our mooring and headed over to Great Palm Island and anchored off the jetty in Casement Bay. After Manatee's anchor had set (and we sought permission to land, as required) we headed over to the jetty by dinghy where we were hailed by numerous kids. "Hey miss put er ere" screamed a young girl frantically waving us over to her spot on the jetty. "No miss over ere" yelled a boy pointing to the boat ramp. With numerous directions being screamed at us we went back to our original choice where girl one, Liandra extended her hand and said "ere miss I'll pull you up and promising to keep an eye on the dinghy. We strolled off to the supermarket, turning back to see the dinghy filled with kids. Oh well!
Marg went shopping for some fresh food while AK waited outside with Ruby. Ruby soon had a gathering of randy young bucks surrounding us, one scar faced dog with tail wagging furiously, I'm sure winked and smiled. The other female dogs, obviously on heat, were ignored in favour of the cute new bitch! Unfortunately as AK had her hands full protecting Ruby's morals a practice by the chooky dancers for the Palm Island Spring Festival was missed.
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| chooky dancers at the festival (Melissa Sweet image) Shopping completed we headed back to the jetty, Ruby impressed by all the attention, reprimanded for giving come hither looks to the mob of dogs following us. We were met by sheepish grins from the kids on our return and Liandra reminded us of a promise to take her for a dinghy ride with her friends Leeandra and Lesandra. Quick as a flash they were back in the dinghy, encouraging AK to consider taking them all on a sail in "the big boat". "Garn miss let er fly" was Lesandra's command so we were off with screams of delight. Three very proud girls strutted up the jetty past the boy's on our return! We then returned to Fantome Island for the afternoon, anchoring in Juno Bay.  We spent a calm night anchored in Juno and had a fantastic Friday walking the Island. Ruby saw a herd of goats and took off after them, impressing us with her speed. She then ran twice as far in the opposite direction- wonder what they said to her? The beach opposite the old settlement was amazing, so it was good to leave a sad place with memories of beauty.     |
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